How Not to Do It
Here's a quick review of the key issues to do with model presentation and safety. Don't take the lessons too seriously - except for the tips...
Lesson 1 - "Use Chewing Gum and Polyfilla"
If you were rash enough to turn up to a BMFA comp with a model like the one on the left, the CD wouldn't need to turn you away, since your model would be unlikely to survive the journey to the flight line...
Tip: Make sure your model is structurally sound. Cracked spars, loose joiners, and V-tails which are ready to clap hands are all bad news.
Lesson 2 - "Soldering is for Geeks"
Or "why create the sparks on the course, if you can create them inside the model?" !
Tip: Electrical problems cause crashes. Getting it right starts with the soldering, so if you can't tell a dry joint from a damp fag, get somebody else to make up your harness.
Take care with D-connectors especially if they are subject to mechanical flex. Any defect will remain out of sight, so do a proper soldering job and support the joints properly with heatshrink, or pot them with epoxy or silicon. Chamfer your cable exits to prevent chafing.
Finally, if you insist on fixing broken wires by twisting them together, then please do so out of view of your fellow competitors!
Lesson 3 - "Stick your servos with Blue Tak"
Failing to adequately secure your wing servos will work wonders for your models flight path - not!
Tip: many F3F'ers use servo mounts like these. They are secure, yet the servos are easily unscrewed for replacement. Alternatively epoxy the servo in a bed of epoxy/microballoons.
Avoid using silicon rubber to bond servo to the wing skin, as the stuff is very difficult to remove completely, and quick repairs become impossible.
Lesson 4 - "NEVER charge your batteries"
If you want to show a really laid back attitude, make sure your batteries are well and truly knackered before your first flight. One way to do this is to age them in a whisky cask, say for 5 or 10 years. Alternatively, stick a few 10's of amps through them and leave overnight. Knackered batteries are great for truly spectacular terminal descents...
Tip: Charge your batteries shortly before the comp. If the charge current is low when the charger is set to Auto - that's a good sign that one or more cells are on their last legs, so junk em. Take extra care if using NiMH batteries in very cold conditions.
Note that the latest so-called "hybrid" NiMH batteries (e.g. Sanyo Eneloops, Uniross Hybrio, Panasonic Infinium) offer much reduced self-discharge compared with regular cells. A spare fully charged pack can therefore be kept in your backpack without the need for regular topping up.
Lesson 5 - "Skimp on the Radio Installation"
Some installations look like they'd be better off in an art gallery. They'd certainly be safer there (here's a virtual art gallery).
Tip: Carbon fuselages present a particular challenge. When installing a 35 MHz rx in an all-carbon fuse, leave the aerial dangling free for the first flight tests, then refine it gradually as you get a feel for any range issues. An rx with a glitch counter is useful here. Another method is to leave the aerial inside the fuse, but extend it so it trails behind - see the Samba Model site. Taping the antenna to the outside of the fus does not work!
Note that IPD and PCM receivers mask glitches, giving a false sense of security.
2.4 GHz receivers don't like carbon either. Use a glass layup for the business end. Use telemetry to check signal strength, and if necessary use a satellite receiver or extended antennas.
Lesson 6 - "Preparation is for Sissies"
Flying is fun. Sitting around on the hill with your model in bits is not fun. Do your preparation well in advance of the competition. No amount of flying skill can make up for poor preparation.