How Not to Do It
Here's a lighthearted look at some of the issues to do with model presentation and safety. Don't take the lessons too seriously, except for the tips!
Lesson 1 - "Use Chewing Gum and Polyfilla"
If you were rash enough to turn up to a BMFA comp with a model like the one on the left, the CD wouldn't even bother to turn you away, since your model would be unlikely to survive the journey to the flight line...
Tip: Don't bring a model unless it's structurally sound and well screwed together. Cracked spars, loose joiners, and V-tails which are ready to clap hands are all bad news.
Lesson 2 - "Soldering is for Geeks"
Soldering is for Geeks, and not to be bothered with. Why create the sparks on the course, if you can create them inside the model ?!
Tip: Electrical problems are responsible for a great many missed flights. It's worth getting it right, and that starts with the soldering. If you can't tell a dry joint from a damp fag, get somebody else to do it for you.
D-connectors are the most critical as well as the most tricky to solder. Defects remain out of sight, so it's even more important to support the joints properly. Use heatshrink, or else pot the joints with epoxy or silicon. Remove any stray strands of wire to prevent shorting of adjacent pins.
Always xhamfer the cable exit holes in the wing breaks, to prevent chafing. Also check servo plugs occasionally for fracturing near the plugs.
Finally, if you insist on fixing broken wires by twisting them together temporarily, then please do so out of view of your fellow competitors!
Lesson 3 - "Stick your servos with Blue Tak"
Failing to adequately secure your wing servos will work wonders for your models flight path - not!
Tip: many F3F'ers use servo mounts like those from Cubitts Models. These are neat, secure, and allow the servos to be easily removed. Another popular method is to epoxy the servo in a bed of epoxy/microballoons.
Avoid using silicon rubber to bond servo to the wing skin, as the stuff is impossible to remove completely, and quick repairs become impossible.
Lesson 4 - "NEVER charge your batteries"
If you want to show a really laid back attitude, make sure your batteries are well and truly knackered before your first flight. One way to do this is to age them in a whisky cask, say for 5 or 10 years. Alternatively, stick a few 10's of amps through them and leave overnight. Knackered batteries are great for truly spectacular terminal descents...
Tip: Charge your batteries shortly before the comp, and junk them if the charge current is down when the charger is set to Auto - that's a good sign that one or more cells are on their last legs. If your'e using NiMH batteries below say 5 degrees, it's worth doing some capacity checks as they can drain very quickly in the cold, depending on the brand.
Lesson 5 - "Skimp on the Radio Installation"
Some installations look like they'd be better off in an art gallery. They'd certainly be safer there. Here's a virtual art gallery.
Tip: A word about carbon fuselages - these are the scourge of the F3X flyer as far as installation is concerned. When installing the Rx aerial in a carbon fus, It's better to have the aerial dangling free for the first flight tests, then refine it gradually as you get a feel for the range issues. Taping to the outside of a carbon fus is not sufficient.
IPD and PCM receivers can mask glitches, giving a false sense of security. If your Rx has a glitch counter then use it, (If you really want to be confused, pose the carbon question on the F3F group, and wait for 100 different answers...)
Lesson 6 - "Preparation is for Sissies"
Flying is fun. Sitting around on the hill with your model in bits is not fun. Do your preparation well in advance of the competition. No amount of flying skill can make up for defective preparation.
Now go and have some fun!